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I read all of the comments for http://www.interiorhouseblog.com There is a common thread. My readers want to know where I got the appearance for my blog. I use a standard wordpress template. I keep everything simple.
The next biggest concern is who my web host is. My readers say my site loads very quickly on all their devices. http://secure.hostgator.com/~affiliat/cgi-bin/affiliates/clickthru.cgi?id=edkimble an affiliate for my web host, please use the link to my host, as I receive a small commission as an affiliate.
The third and final concerns comments from aspiring bloggers looking for tips. It is most beneficial for them to take an English composition, followed by an expository writing course. There are many other concerns for an aspiring blogger. First, make sure all your spelling is correct
Next, make a list of all the facts you want to cover, Then make an outline out of these facts. Make sure everything in your outline is correct. Then you may have to rearrange your outline before you begin writing the first post for your blog. Only then can you begin writing.
After you make your outline, you should have one or several paragraphs to write. Be consistent. Put transitions between your paragraphs. For example if you are writing an article on painting kitchen cabinets, the first paragraphs may end with “Now that you have prepared your cabinets, it is time to paint.” And the next paragraph may start “Your cabinets have been prepared, so you can start painting.”
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Don’t Paint Outside During Fall
Although this website is http://www.interiorhousepaintingblog.com I feel compelled to warn against painting the exterior of a house or other structure in the fall. You might say “Why not? The weather is great for working outside, not hot and humid. It’s a great time to paint outside.” Although it is comfortable for the painter, it is not comfortable for the paint. A lot of exterior painting is done in the fall, and this is a bad mistake.
In my successful house painting business that I started in June 1970, I would not schedule any outside painting job after October 1. Some of my customers did not like this, and they hired another painter. I took quite a few years, but my customers soon found out that I was prudent in my decision not to paint outside after October 1.
Within a year or two, structures painted in the fall started to show signs of paint failure. There was cracking, peeling and flaking off of paint, and the paint job needed repair or repainting within a year or two. There is a scientific reason for this failure.
The scientific reason is in the drying and bonding of paint. Two things happen during this process. The vehicle (either latex or oil) dries up as the paint dries. The second thing that happens is that there is a chemical reaction within the paint. Both of these processes have to happen in a relatively warm environment. Paint cans will warn you not to apply paint when the temperature is below 50 or 55 degrees. Many fall days, it may be 70 in the daytime, but go down as low as 28 overnight. The fresh paint is still going through the chemical reaction necessary for proper adherence of the paint. This cannot occur in the lower temperatures, thus the paint does not adhere to the surface and peels off within a year or two.
There are some other reasons not to paint outside. Certain types of windows need putty (glazing compound.) Putty takes a very long time to dry, especially because a large amount of putty has to be used, making it thick. Putty also needs warmer temperatures to dry and cure properly, otherwise it will crack and have to be removed and replaced. For a good, tight paint job, you will also need to use a lot of latex caulk. Caulk also needs warmer temperatures to dry and cure. Primers need some warmth to dry.
By the way, fall is a perfect time for inside painting. Look for my upcoming article on this.
It really is simple when you understand the process. DON’T PAINT OUTSIDE IN THE FALL!
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I have been selected as the resident house painting expert for the site http://www.doityourself.com The site sends me articles, and I correct them. As I said in the beginning of this blog, most of the information about interior house painting is just plain wrong. It has been my quest on this site to correct some of the misinformation about interior house painting. doityourself was wise enough to realize that a lot of the articles on the site had bad information, and they were impressed with the accuracy of http://www.interiorhousepaintingblog.com and solicited me to correct their articles. One thing that keeps coming up is spray painting, both with professional equipment and also with aerosol cans. I have to keep repeating the proper technique in many articles, so I decided just to write an article for this blog with the basic information. Be sure to bookmark this page. Whether using professional equipment such as airless sprayers or compressor driven paint guns or aerosol cans, the basic technique is the same.
First of all, let me caution you on a health matter. When spray painting, the proper paint respirator is a must. They are not cheap, but if you want to fully protect your lungs and nervous system and yourself, you should wear a respirator. The fumes from spray paint can make you dizzy and sick, and even pass out. Also make sure that you do this spraying with adequate ventilation. If you have a metal cabinet or a piece of furniture or anything that you can move, the ideal solution is to wait for a warm, calm day and carry the piece outside. If this is not possible, make sure there is a LOT of ventilation. Protect your health.
The next caution when spray painting is to make sure that you cover anything that you do not want to get any paint on with drop cloths, either plastic or canvas, or newspaper. When spraying, there is a lot of overspray. It can travel very far and really make a mess of things. So, cover it up!
Now for the technique to spray paint. Let us say that you are painting a small metal cabinet or some outdoor furniture. You need to remember that the proper way to spray involves an on/off on/off motion. Lets say we are doing the cabinet. Hold the spray can to the left of the cabinet with your finger on the button and start to spray BEFORE you reach the cabinet. Hold the can about ten inches away from the surface to be painted. Then continue spraying beyond the right edge of the cabinet, then let off the button completely and repeat the process from right to left, and each time you pass beyond the cabinet let your finger off the button for a second and then start spraying again. And do not try to paint the piece all in one heavy coat. You should use several light coats, otherwise you will have sags, drips and runs. The first coat should be a very light coat. Painters call this a “tack” coat. Don’t worry about covering the piece with the first coat, think of it as just something for the following coats to stick to. You will usually need about three light coats.
When using aerosol cans, they first need to be shaken very hard for very long. There is a marble inside of the can, and after you have been shaking for a while, it will “break loose” and you will hear it rattling around inside of the can. Continue to shake for a very long time. You can do no harm by shaking too much. Also, make sure you read all of the instructions and cautions printed on the can.
Here is a good trick that you must know. If the aerosol can starts to clog up or spit or dribble, shake the can and turn it upside down and depress the button until nothing but air is coming out. This should brake up the clog. Another little tip: After the can is completely empty, turn it upside down and spray out any remaining air and save the spray button. Sometimes a button becomes hopelessly clogged, and sometimes they may pop off and be hard to find. Having that spare can be really sweet.
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Nothing has changed in http://www.interiorhousepaintingblog.com for some time. Now I will be adding a series of interior house painting instructions, as well as more information on the hazards of lead paint, wearing the proper respirator during painting projects and other safety precautions. I am beginning this series of articles with a post about removing wallpaper.
For this job you will need sheets of plastic drop cloths, a garden type sprayer, and a wallpaper scraper with a razor blade that can be changed when dull, or a spackle knife. The razor scraper is best used on plaster walls, the spackle knife on drywall (or sheet rock or gypsum board.) You can use the razor edge wallpaper removal tool on drywall, but the wallpaper must be thoroughly saturated with hot water containing vinegar so it can be razored off of the drywall without damaging it. For the plastic sheets, spend a little more money for the thicker kind. Don’t use the super cheap but super thin sheets, which are hard to open from the package and will tear and will not hold the weight of the removed wallpaper lying on them when you pick them up. The sprayer has a pump handle on top. You pump this handle and build up pressure, and do it again when the original pressure has gone down. You may have seen people spraying their garden with this type of sprayer. It is perfect for saturating the wallpaper you want to remove.
Before you do anything, go to the circuit breaker or fuse box to turn off the electricity in the room where you will be removing wallpaper. Move furniture away from the walls. Place the plastic sheeting at the base of the wall, right up against the baseboard. Make sure the carpet, tile or wood floor is completely covered to prevent water damage or glue mess on floor. Make sure also that all furniture that could possibly be hit with your sprayer is covered with plastic drop cloths.
Before you even fill the sprayer, score lines on the surface of wallpaper. Be careful not to go too deep and score the walls making extra repairs necessary. There are also tools available at the hardware or paint store made specifically for breaking the surface of the wallpaper so that the water solution can get under and through the wallpaper. These tools contain small wheels with spikes sticking out.
After all of the plastic is in place and the surface of the wallpaper is scored or “Broken,” the sprayer can be filled. DO NOT buy the expensive chemicals made for wallpaper removal. They are largely ineffective and can irritate skin. If you decide to use these chemicals, make sure you are wearing the right respirator to protect your breathing paths and lungs. I strongly recommend that you do NOT use them. Regular white vinegar works better than these chemicals, and vinegar is cheap. When filling your garden sprayer with vinegar and water, use a 2:1 solution, two parts water and one part vinegar. You should use the hottest water that you can. Don’t buy or rent a wallpaper steamer. They are dangerous and it is easy to get burned. You have to stand and hold them against the wall, only covering a very small area. Wallpaper steamers do not work. Hot water and vinegar is the way to go.
Now that your spraying combination is mixed in the sprayer, pump it up and spray all the walls in the room. At first the paper will soak up all the water and the wallpaper will look dry. As long as too much water is not running onto the plastic, you can immediately go all the way around the room again with the sprayer. Then go do something else for about twenty minutes. Return to the room and spray it one more time liberally. There will be water on the plastic, and as the wallpaper is scraped off there will be sheets of paper and glue, making for a very slippery condition. Be VERY CAREFUL walking on this slippery surface
Now that the wallpaper is saturated, you can use your razor scraper or spackling knife to start removing the paper. If it is very hard to scrape the wallpaper, wait. If it is too hard to get off, you need to spray the room again and WAIT a while, and it should come off easily. The paper and glue will eventually soften up with enough spraying and time.
After you have completely stripped off the wallpaper, it is time to get the glue off. Try to remove the glue as soon as possible after removing the wallpaper while the glue is very wet. You can use a wet rag followed with a clean, dry rag or towel. Keep turning the rags as they become saturated with glue. There may be too much glue to take off, in which case you may have to use your razor scraper or spackling blade to scrape off the glue. It may be a little difficult to remove the glue, but it is not nearly as hard as stripping the wallpaper, which you have already done. Now you can roll up the sheets of plastic full of stripped wallpaper and glue.
Let the wall dry thoroughly before painting. Fans will help this happen faster. When the wall is dry, you should apply an oil base primer/sealer on it. There are some good latex primer/sealer products, but for sure shot coverage, I use an oil based product. You have to wear a respirator to use oil base primer/sealers. These respirators are not cheap, but if you apply an oil base primer/sealer without a respirator you will get sick, dizzy and high. These products can also damage the nervous system, so WEAR A RESPIRATOR. You should actually wear a respirator no matter what type of paint you are using, but they are an absolute necessity when using an oil base primer/sealer. Always make sure to read the warnings, cautions and instructions on cans of paint. As you pour the paint, make sure not to cover these warnings, cautions and instructions on the back of paint cans. These warnings are for your safety and health, as well as anyone nearby. And don’t forget about pets, they can get sick and be harmed by some products. It is best if all people and pets be somewhere else when applying products like an oil base primer/sealer. When the primer is completely dry, the repairs can be started.
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Most of the information I have seen about painting around furniture while working on your interior house painting project tells you to move all of the furniture to the center of the room. This really is not very helpful. Think about a bedroom or living room. If you move all of the furniture to the middle of the room, you have created a huge obstacle to paint around. Even with the proper extension pole for your paint roller, such an obstacle in the center of the room is hard to work around. it is hard to reach over this obstacle to paint the ceiling.
What Interior House Painting Blog recommends is that you move the furniture away from the walls and arrange it with a few pieces in different areas of the room. This makes it easier to work around. Think of a chain of islands spread around the room rather than a huge continent in the center. Just make sure that you leave enough room between islands and walls to place a ladder next to them.
When moving furniture, practice safe lifting. Be careful not to injure your back. I would strongly suggest you follow this link to a tutorial on safe lifting practices:
When moving furniture, take care not to damage it. Smaller light weight pieces of furniture can be picked up and moved. You may have to slide heavier pieces across the floor. Another thing to be very concerned about is the floor. Be careful not to scratch or cut any wooden or tile floors. Also, something that you may not think of is damage to carpet. Pushing or sliding heavy pieces of furniture across carpets can buckle the carpet, creating “hills and valleys” or lumps in carpet. What you need to do to avoid damage to any type of floor is to put large pieces of cardboard under the furniture and slide the furniture across the cardboard, thus protecting the floor. Visit a retail store to ask for some large, empty cardboard boxes and collapse the boxes to have a nice sheet of cardboard to slide the furniture over. Make sure the cardboard is thick enough, and be sure to remove any staples in the cardboard. Doing this at the beginning of your interior house painting project will avoid any damage to your floors.
You must also be very careful with any electrical outlets or switches in the room. You need to turn off the circuit breakers for the outlets in the room you are working on to avoid shock. Latex paint contains a lot of water, and everyone knows that water conducts electricity. Sometimes you may need to turn off more than one breaker for one room. A foolproof way to see if an outlet is off is to use a circuit tester. Inexpensive circuit testers may be purchased at any hardware store. Circuit testers consist of two wires or bars connected to a sealled light. If you plug the circuit tester into any outlet and it lights up, you will know you were not successful in turning off all electricity to the room you want to paint and you will have to to turn off the right breaker, perhaps several. After all of the electricity in the room is off, it is safe to remover the switch plates and outlet covers so as not to get any paint on them. Place all of the screws in a glass and be sure to place it somewhere that it will not be forgotten or knocked over.
You must cover all of your furniture with drop cloths. For this, use plastic sheets that you can buy at any paint or hardware store. Buy the thicker sheets. The thin sheets of plastic are hard to unfold and also tear easily. There are also drop cloths for your interior house painting job that are paper on one side and plastic on the other. These are also ideal for covering floors. You now know the best and the quickest way to set up a room to begin your interior house painting project.
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Lead was added to paint until 1978. So if you are painting a house constructed before1979, lead paint was almost certainly used to paint it. If you are old enogh, you must remember that lead was also added to gasoline until it was made illegal to do so.
I realize that Internet etiquette dictates not to use capital letters and that it is considered shouting, but I wanted to keep this serious warning intact. I copied this warning right off of the lid of a paint can. I want to make this common knowledge. I know that people rarely read the warnings on labels of any kind, so I am putting this lead paint warning here so that it will be read and taken to heart.
WARNING! If you scrape, sand or remove old paint, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a NIOSH approved respirator to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by calling the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead .
Don’t panic, lead paint poses no danger if it is intact and undisturbed. Flaking or peeling paint does pose a danger to children if they chew on paint chips. Paint chips have a sweet taste, so be careful, and remove all peeling or flaking paint. Where lead paint poses a hazard is when painting or renovations are done. That is when sanding and scraping can put lead dust in the air and have it settle on surfaces.
Starting in April 2010, federal law will require that anyone performing renovations, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities and schools built before 1978 must be certified and follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination. Until that time, the EPA recommends that anyone performing these repairs, renovations or painting in pre-1978 structures follow these three simple rulea:
-CONTAIN the work area
-CLEAN up thoroughly
If you have a contractor paint your home, make sure they follow these work practices.
In addition to lead-based paint, non lead-based that is in use today requires special precautions to avoid harm to your health. I am going to copy another warning off of a paint can to make sure that you read it. It is as follows:
Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid overexposure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh air entry during application and drying. If you experiencine eye watering, headache or dizzines, increase fresh air or wear properly fitted respirator or leave the area. When spraying, wear proper respiratory protection. Adequate ventilation is required before sanding or abrading the dry film. If adequate ventilation cannot be provided, wear an approved particulate respirator [I always use a dust mask when sanding because I like my lungs.] In all cases follow respirator manufacturer’s direction for respirator use. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. [Wear safety glasses with side shields.] Wash thoroughly after handling. Do not take internally. Close container after each use. FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush with plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Get medical attention. If swallowed , get medical attention immediately.
I don’t want to scare you away from your painting project or even hire a contractor to paint your home. I also don’t want to scare away any new professional painters. It is a great job. I have been doing it for years, and my health is excellent.
I had to inform you of all of these hazards because it is very important. Go to the government web site for a lot more information on lead-based paint. I am glad that you now know about all of these hazards. Like everything else in life, it pays to be careful. Take care.
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Before even considering doing an interior house painting job you should walk through the area to be painted with your customer. During this inspection point out any paint that is in places where paint doesn’t belong. Look at all of the carpet, tile, or natural wood floor to find any paint spots. Frequently, paint can be found along the baseboards of the room. Also look for scratches on the wood or tile floor. Check wallpaper, counter tops, and any areas where there should not be any paint. Check all natural wood trim and doors for any paint. Look for spatters of paint on all of the floors.
As you inspect the area to be painted for any unwanted paint, also check the contents of the room. Look carefully at the furniture in the room to see if there are any cracks or cuts on any of it. Check for any flimsy or loose furniture which might be damaged or ready to fall apart, especially when moved. Sliding furniture across the carpet can buckle the carpet. Point out any “hills” in the carpet that already exist. Look at the decorations in the area to be painted. Inspect any knickknacks or other decorations for damage or cracks. Also note any cracked windows or cut screens. In our walk through inspection we are just pointing out any paint spots or damage in the area to be painted before we even start painting so that we are not blamed for any irregularities that we did not cause on our interior house painting job. Believe it or not, the people living in the home to be painted may not even be aware of these things. They are easily overlooked until the final inspection of the area after the painting is complete. This is the time that the customer looks at every little detail and may find things that are overlooked in the normal course of things.
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Why should you paint rooms on the interior of a house? You will be better able to answer this question when the paint job is completed. At that time you will be proud of the beautiful new rooms that you have created. An interior paint job makes the home more attractive, clean, fresh and beautiful, just like it is brand new. Nothing improves the appearance of the home better than a fresh paint job.
Before you paint there may be holes or cracks in the walls and ceiling. Also furniture often makes unattractive marks on the walls. You may just want a change. A good interior house painting totally transforms a home. One of the greatest reasons that I love to complete a paint job is to see how good it makes the homeowner feel. They are always thrilled and grateful for the work.
Another reason to paint an interior is to increase the value of a home. Also, if you are selling the house, it will almost always sell shortly after the application of the home paint, and for a higher price than it would have before the painting. I have painted homes and later heard from the homeowner that the house sold for more than they expected. Many times an appraisal after the painting is for a higher value than it was previous to the work. If there is a vacant home that has been on the market for a long time with no offers, a new coat of paint almost always sells the home within a couple of months. I know this because I have painted a lot of vacant interiors for realtors, and after I am done the house sells in short order.
As you can see, there are a lot of reasons to paint the interior of a home. So let’s get to it!
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So just exactly what qualifies me to provide interior house painting instructions? I have been a professional house painter since 1970. I started painting as a child, and during college I made money painting during the summers. When I graduated in 1970, I painted many of the houses in my neighborhood, then moved on to paint other structures. I worked for other painting contractors and then started my own house painting business. I worked with professional house painters with varying degrees of experience, and with different methods of preparation and application of various types of home paint. I really don’t think that there is any question that I can’t answer about house painting. I have painted countless homes and commercial structures. I learned a great deal from other house painters, and I am always learning more. I am an expert on house painting preparation. In addition to learning from other professional house painters, I learned a great deal more just by preparing and painting myself. I can prepare any home for painting, including sealing cracks, holes, gaps and everything else involved in house painting preparation. I went through countless five gallon cans of joint compound and spackle and hundreds and hundreds of gallons of paint. I have painted with all types of house paint, including latex, oil, epoxy, zylene based and other coatings. I worked in body shops and repaired and painted cars and trucks. Car painting is a fine art. In addition to residential interior house painting, I have painted huge malls, churches, schools and factories. I once had over 2000 apartment units under contract. The apartments all had to be painted when tenants moved out. The apartment painting was a lot of fun. I have brushed, rolled, and sprayed my way through life. In short, I know how to paint, and it thrills me to help others learn how to do interior house painting in the best ways possible, and save a LOT of time in the process. I can also be very helpful to professional house painters and contractors. What drove me to put up this interior house painting blog was reading and seeing interior house painting instructions by others. Don’t get me wrong, there are some excellent instructions out there, all correct and useful for interior house painting jobs. But there is a lot of bad advice and misinformation. Also, much of what I have come across in interior house painting instructions is correct and good, but only TOO thorough. The instructions, if followed, will produce excellent results, but there are ways to really save time painting. I really want to help people to produce excellent, long lasting results, but also save time painting in the process. I hope I can be of some help to you.
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The purpose of this blog is to instruct people to save time and energy doing interior house painting jobs as well as to have them look really great and save money in the process. The owner of this web site has over 30 years experience as a professional house painter and painting contractor. The publisher is passionately driven to show and tell the right ways to do an interior house painting project in the least time and least aggravation for the best looking job.
After watching and reading much instruction on interior house painting it is seen that a great deal of the information is just plain wrong. We need to remedy this condition. The information in the Interior House Painting Blog will be useful to both homeowners and painting contractors.